Sunning ourselves on bow of the boat, we watch a pod of melon-headed dolphins move through the water at a clipping pace, some unknown destination in mind. A flash of white catches my eye – ‘orca’ yells Fizzy, but no, it’s an oceanic manta ray. Catching the sun’s rays on the surface, the tips of its’ fins / wings curling up and down as it glides along. Already in the water, waving and screaming excitedly, the boys follow. With some careful manoeuvring by our boat captain, it swims towards and under us, and I’m rewarded with a full view of this beautiful sea creature.

A shot from below, with O’s super-duper camera

A skip across the sea, just 1 hours flight from Darwin, and we – the Sergison girls –  are in Timor-Leste. A country with a complex and tumultuous history. Colonised by Portugal in the 16th century, it was declared independent for just 9 days before being invaded by Indonesia in 1975. Indonesia’s occupation was, I read, characterised by highly violent conflict between separatist groups and the Indonesian military. Combined with famine, over 200,000 people are thought to have died. In 1999, with UN support, Indonesia relinquished control and East Timor became a sovereign state. Not without violence and bloodshed.

Today, it still has a strongly Indonesian feel, at least in dusty Dili. But this is less pronounced on Atauro Island to the north, where we’ve come to explore the oceans and relax.

Dolphins on our way to Atauro Island, looking back towards Dili

A recent marine survey of 10 sites around the island by Conservation International suggested it has a higher number of reef fish species per site than any other place on the planet. While volunteering with the Coral Triangle Centre as a grant writing advisor, we successfully got 2 grants to do comprehensive marine protected area planning here – work now underway.

With diving in mind, getting into my new wetsuit was an extraordinary challenge – 5.5mm (yes, I feel the cold) and no ankle/wrist zips. Skin lost on both knuckles trying to pull it on. Seriously. Bought in Bali because my trusty pink-striped Neptune was in storage, to ward off the perils of an anticipated ill-fitting wetsuit during my Komodo NP trip. Never again – it is destined for a second home! As for the diving, the vis wasn’t great, but some beautiful corals, soft and hard. Few larger fish, and not the diversity I expected – but then I dive for the overall experience and my knowledge of fish species is patchy at best.

Dive briefing, and ready to go!

Adara Eco-resort

A slow boat journey then took us to Barry’s Place on the other side of the island, our driver singing softly all the way. A chance to visit a local NGO raising ducks for villagers, the Boneca doll factory where women embroider fabric on beautiful Singer machines, peddling away, and the local markets.

Back in Dili, more beaches and conversations with friend’s of C and B.  An amusing taxi ride  – windscreen a cracked spiderweb, likely held together by the wide black reflective strip at the top below which you could barely just see the road. Back windows shaded out, the winders not working, so the passing scenery could only be imagined. Sub-woofer belting out a Timor version of reggae – respectfully turned down as we passed the church, it being Sunday and all.

A peaceful holiday with lots of stories and experiences shared – we’re already planning next years trip!

A word on the Sergison Circuit girls, or should I say women. We live in a small block of 6 townhouses, each in our own space.  Unusually we have similar values and shared interests in environmentalism, social issues, books and composting!  We wander next door for shared dinners, downloading our days and laughing at the world; go to events and explore the top end together. I feel very lucky to share time with these smart, thoughtful and fabulous women – the universe is certainly supporting this new chapter of my life.