In my minds eye, this was a road trip of sun, beaches, gentle breezes and relaxation. February chosen to avoid the school holiday crowds, my good friend Sandra joining me for another sea adventure. And while much of this transpired, La Nina added a few twists for interest.

We headed north via Buladelah, staying a night with Sandra’s friend on a lovely property just out of town. A straw bale house, art studio, bountiful vegie patch, adjoining bush and mountains in the background. Quite idyllic. I was keen to hear how she created this – particularly since she built it in her mid 60s. It’s been a dream of mine – but interestingly I found it hard to imagine myself in her place.

Byron Bay was next, our northerrn most point, staying in a lovely little apartment above a garden nursery (great price off season!). It bears scant resemblance to the place I visited in my early 20s, when we camped by the beach with little regulation. Endless traffic clogging the roads, boutique shops, hordes of visitors and not a free parking spot in sight! A number of women who’ve gone overboard with the putty filler – I spotted one woman who I thought had pursed her lips …. but as this look persisted for some distance, it dawned on me it was permanent – Lulu Lemon Lips, Sandra calls them. Despite all this, it remains a beautiful place: sweeping beaches, a pod of 40 dolphins surfing off the most eastern point of Australia, tea-tree stained lakes to immerse ourselves in, far from the crowds. And I finally found a replacement for my much loved white cotton shirt – featured in every diving holiday photo for the last 15 years, but on its last legs, even with a new back panel.

And so we travel – on the boardwalk featuring my favourite beach shirt and cooking up a storm in the kitchen

A day trip via historic Bangalow to Protestors Falls, Terania Creek. So named after the protests in 1979 to stop logging of the rainforest, regarded as a ‘watershed moment in Australia’s environmental movement and cited as the first time people physically defended a natural resource’. Now protected as part of Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area. Alas we couldn’t swim because this is also home to the threatened Fleay”s Barred Frog and Pouched Frog – but beautiful nonetheless.

Heading south to Yuraygir National Park – and the part of the trip I was really looking forward to. We pulled in to Illaroo campground with an overcast sky, and the drizzle started as I put up my tent. Sandra managed to peg hers … and then the drizzle became rain. Retreating to the car, we watched in dismay as large pools of water formed on her flattened tent. Visions of a soggy night afloat on an air mattress. Eventually it stopped and we set up camp, with an oversized tarp not quite fit for purpose and threatening to sail into the air with every gust. I’d had the foresight to buy poles and ropes, but its fair to say the whole construction didn’t signal camping competence. It was one of ‘those’ camps that, as my ranger friend noted, the staff sadly shake their head over. Sandra was a trooper, pegging things in the rain while my spirits sunk … she lovingly laughed to see me wrapped in my raincoat, miserably hunched in my chair under the flapping tarp. Not feeling the slightest bit resilient. But later the sun came out, the bush started to steam and all seemed right in the world again.

Long beach walks, collecting bits of plastic along the way, which sadly seem to be everywhere. Swimming in water that was wild but warm. The camp goannas on their daily rounds. A small white crab standing perfectly still … a minute later a goanna racing towards me, I reflexively draw up my legs and watched the crab’s life end in its jaws. A small stingray flapping around in the shallow water, not stuck, as Sandra feared, but feeding. Blue bottles washed up on the beach. Gusty winds on our last night, clear starry nights.

Diving at North Solitary Island with members of the Terrigal diving group … beautiful anenome garden with a variety of clown fish, many soft corals. Two rays gliding overhead, just spotted in the distance. Three turtles, always a favourite, and most exciting of all a leopard shark … I was mesmerised as it swam towards me, until I suddenly remembered it was a shark, and that perhaps I needed to be a little cautious … unperturbed it changed direction and swam past. So glad I decided to go – the absence of a dive master made me a little anxious, and I still miss sharing the depths with my former dive buddy.

From beaches we headed inland for a walk through the rainforest at Dorigo.

And then more rain. Sitting in the car by the side of the road, sheets of water falling around us. Ringing van parks for a cabin, to no avail. Thank goodness for mobile phones. Finally booking rooms at a hotel in Kempsey (!), and deciding on a quick trip to South West Rocks first, where we’d planned to camp. Early evening colours with stormy skies.

Further south, a quick snorkel at Hat Head National Park, the creek lined with mangroves forming a fish nursery with crystal clear water, and a swim at Diamond Head, Crowdy Bay National Park. Then our final night on the road staying with my friend near the south of the park, enjoying a long hot shower, home brew and good company.

We adventure well together, the lovely Sandra and I. We listened to podcasts and reflected on life. I filled up with petrol, she dragged on a smoke, being sure to stay well clear of the bowsers. And of particular significance, she plucked up her courage, buoyed by recent refresher lessons, and got behind the wheel again. A little left leaning, but definitely getting her groove back. Here’s to summer holidays!

As I write this the trees are changing colour and the night temperatures are dropping – a chilly 4 degrees last night. I pull out my lap rug and start the count down to those long glorious summer days.